Extreme...extremely stupid

The surf today is downright lethal, a combination of momentum, a wicked break, and sheer volume. About every half hour a set arrives, announced by a sound I can only liken to dynamite. Proof of such is evident in that not an eye remains on a book, or a mixed drink for that matter, as they arrive. This particular set caught my attention with a pointed bang. Again, like dynamite, it sounded as if someone was blowing up the beach. I'm sure the Texans afoot thought it could only be the doing of Al Queda. As the spray from the first wave subsided, I saw a lone cowboy atop a jetski. And what a daring cowboy he was, zipping amongst titans taken the form of waves. Just in time for the second wave in the set to take its characteristic "Rip Tide" form, he dipped to its foot, surely drunk on the fact that he was so brave in front of a crowd of so many. Spurred on, he climbed the wave at an angle. I could only assume he was going to crest the wave with a jump, finding safety on the other side. Instead, he chose to turn perpendicular to the wave's growing momentum as he reached its white crest. And here he rode, not powered by the prepulsion of a jet ski, but the much greater force of a massive wave. In an instant, one of those terrifyingly exhilarating moments, he traveled an amazing distance down the beach atop this wave only for the wave to throw him free like an angry bull. Now airborne, the rider surely, finally, saw the trecherous fate in front of him. He was thrown well past any hint of water, clutching to the jet ski, now his wet blanket in this ordeal. Even before he landed, people across the beach began sprinting in the direction of his landing. They were out there for a good hour, huddled in a circle, with body language that betrayed the seriousness of the situation. He was eventually carried off the beach on a backboard. I'm not sure the extent of his injuries, but it couldn't have been good. Breathtaking moments seem to come in the company of examples of our mortality in greater frequency than those in its absence.

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